Curious About Pies

I'm an amateur cook who'd like to get really good at making pies. I've opted for the immersion method: between August 2011 and August 2012, I'm making at least one pie per week. On this blog, I'll share my pie progress.

Wednesday, September 14, 2011

Lemon Meringue!

I asked Suzanne what kinda pie to make and she said, without hesitation, Lemon Meringue.

I wound up taking photos at night, so they're not so great, but this is more or less what it looked like:





I wound up doing most of the baking while in the midst of an ambitious plum jam canning project. At one point I was beating eggs for meringue with one hand and frantically stirring bubbling jam with the other, while propping open an oven door with my knee. I probably looked like a cartoon character.

Two negative results from my overambitious cooking schedule: I didn't pre-bake the crust enough (so that the bottom crust of this was a little mushy); and the edges of the crust are kind of broken up and un-pretty.

It tasted pretty great though.

The pie dough/crust was Mark Bittman's recipe, which I've been using for pretty much all of these pies, and which is included in the very first post of this blog; the filling and meringue recipe was from Baking Illustrated, which is also a pretty familiar source to anyone who's been reading this. I did run to the corner bodega at the last minute looking for graham crackers so that I could crackerize the crust, but to no avail. I'm curious about the recipe below's crust though, and may try it again on my next pass through meringue-ville.

Here's the lemon meringue recipe from the Cooks Illustrated baking book:


Lemon Meringue Pie
(Makes one 9-inch pie)
Graham Cracker-Coated Pie Shell:
1¼ cups unbleached all-purpose flour
½ teaspoon table salt
1 tablespoon granulated sugar
6 tablespoons unsalted butter , chilled and cut into 1/4-inch pieces
4 tablespoons vegetable shortening , chilled
3-4 tablespoons cold water
½ cup graham cracker crumbs
Lemon Filling:
1 cup granulated sugar
¼ cup cornstarch
1/8 teaspoon table salt
1½ cups cold water
6 large egg yolks
1 tablespoon lemon zest from 1 lemon
½ cup lemon juice from 2 to 3 lemons
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Meringue Topping:
1 tablespoon cornstarch
¼ teaspoon cream of tartar
½ cup granulated sugar
4 large egg whites
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
1. For the pie shell: Mix flour, salt and sugar in food processor fitted with steel blade. Scatter butter pieces over flour mixture, tossing to coat butter with a little of the flour. Cut butter into flour with five 1 second pulses. Add shortening; continue cutting in until flour is pale yellow and resembles coarse cornmeal with butter bits no larger than a small pea, about four more 1-second pulses. Turn mixture into medium bowl.
2. Sprinkle 3 tablespoons cold water over mixture. Using rubber spatula, fold water into mixture; press down on dough mixture with broad side of spatula until dough sticks together. If dough will not come together, add up to 1 tablespoon more cold water. Shape dough into ball, then flatten into 4-inch-wide disk. Dust lightly with flour, wrap in plastic, and refrigerate for 30 minutes before rolling.
3. Generously sprinkle work area with 2 tablespoons graham cracker crumbs. Place dough on work area. Scatter a few more crumbs over dough. Roll dough from center to edges, turning it into a 9-inch disk, rotating a quarter turn after each stroke and sprinkling additional crumbs underneath and on top as necessary to coat heavily. Flip dough over and continue to roll, but not rotate, to form a 13-inch disk slightly less than 1/8-inch thick.
4. Fold dough into quaarters; place dough point in center of 9-inch Pyrex pie pan. Unfold to cover pan completely, letting excess dough drape over pan lip. To fit dough to pan, lift edge of dough with one hand and press dougn in pan bottom with other hand; repeat process around circumferences of pan to ensure dough fits properly and is not stretched. Trim all around, ½-inch past lip of pan. Tuck ½ inch of overhanging dough under so folded edge is flush with lip of pan; press to seal. Press thumb and index finger about ½-inch apart against outside edge of dough, then use index finger or knuckle of other hand to poke a dent on inside edge of dough through opening created by the other fingers. Repeat to flute around perimeter of pie shell.
5. Refrigerate until firm, about 30 minutes. Use fork to prick shell at ½-inch intervals; press a doubled 12-inch square of aluminum foil into pie shell; prick again and refrigerate at least 30 minutes.
6. Adjust oven rack to lowest position, heat oven to 400 degrees. Bake, checking occasionally for ballooning, until crust is firmly set, about 15 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 350 degrees, remove foil, and continue to bake until crust is crisp and rich brown in color, about 10 minutes longer.
7. For the filling: Mix sugar, cornstarch, salt, and water in a large, nonreactive saucepan. Bring mixture to simmer over medium heat, whisking occasionally at beginning of the process and more frequently as mixture begins to thicken. When mixture starts to simmer and turn translucent, whisk in egg yolks, two at a time. Whisk in zest, then lemon juice, and finally butter. Bring mixture to a brisk simmer, whisking constantly. Remove from heat, place plastic wrap directly on surface of filling to keep hot and prevent skin from forming.
8. For the meringue: Mix cornstarch with 1/3 cup water in small saucepan; bring to simmer, whisking occasionally at beginning and more frequently as mixture thickens. When mixture starts to simmer and turn translucent, remove from heat. Let cool while beating egg whites.
9. Heat oven to 325 degrees. Mix cream of tartar and sugar together. Beat egg whites and vanilla until frothy. Beat in sugar mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time; until sugar is incorporated and mixture forms soft peaks. Add cornstarch mixture, 1 tablespoon at a time; continue to beat meringue to stiff peaks. Remove plastic from filling and return to very low heat during last minute or so of beating meringue (to ensure filling is hot).
10. Pour filling into pie shell. Using a rubber spatula, immediately distribute meringue evenly around edge then center of pie to keep it from sinking into filling. Make sure meringue attaches to pie crust to prevent shrinking. Use spoon to create peaks all over meringue. Bake pie until meringue is golden brown, about 20 minutes. Transfer to wire rack and cool to room temperature. Serve.
A friend asked how I was able to keep the meringue from weeping, and I didn't understand the question. (It's just a happy pie, what can I say). Apparently this is a specific term for meringue that gets soft and runny on the underside. I didn't have this problem: Cook's Illustrated probably gets credit for that.

My meringue did sweat a bit while cooling (as you can see in the top and bottom photos). Apparently you're supposed to chomp on these pretty much immediately, instead of cooling completely like the fruit pies (or seal air-tight immediately). Hmm. It tasted good, so who cares. I haven't been doing this long enough to be perfectionist. (And my tendencies are to worry about flavor, not appearance, anyhow).

A slice, from the top:


And from the side: 

Lastly: 

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